Tim Atkin South Africa Special Report 2023

Het langverwachte Tim Atkin South Africa Special Report 2023 is officieel vrijgegeven! Vol trots delen wij de opmerkelijke prestaties van onze beste Zuid-Afrikaanse huizen. 

Atkins SA Wine Report: SA produceert ‘de beste wijnen in zijn geschiedenis’

Zuid-Afrika produceert de “beste wijnen uit zijn geschiedenis”, ondanks de tegenslagen van het land, aldus het laatste South Africa Report van de Britse wijnschrijver Tim Atkin. En dat is te danken aan een verder verbeterde wijnbouw-methodes, selectie van de beste plots, superieure virusvrije stokken en meer verschillende druivenrassen die beter geschikt zijn voor de lokale omstandigheden. 

Atkin geldt al jarenlang als een aanjager voor de Zuid-Afrikaanse wijn businesss en zijn kennis van Zuid-Afrika is onomstreden. In zijn elfde jaarverslag beschrijft Atkin de witte wijnen van Zuid-Afrika als “enkele van de beste ter wereld” en dat “de Kaap de Loire-vallei heeft overschaduwd als herkomst van de beste droge Chenin Blancs ter wereld”. Ook de Zuid-Afrikaanse rode wijnen behoren tot de wereldtop. De rode wijnen van Zuid-Afrika, zegt de Master of Wine, zijn nu ook een match voor de witte Zuid-Afrikaanse wijnen van wereldklasse. Lees hieronder de reviews van onze hoogst scorende wijnen volgens Tim Atkin MW in zijn 2023 South Africa Special Report.

bron:  Tim Atkin South Africa Special Report 2023

WHITES

98pt

Sadie Family Skerpioen 2022 Swartland (13%) "Follow the salt trail" says Eben Sadie of this world-class blend of equal parts Chenin Blanc and Palomino from sand and limestone soils close to the Atlantic Ocean. Rivalling the whites of Santorini in Greece for intensity, concentration and minerality, it's a savoury, focused, windswept delight, with rockpool, oyster shell, lime and citrus flavours. 2024-30

98pt

Sadie Family Skurfberg 2022 Olifants River (13%) Basie van Lill may have gone to the great vineyard in the sky this year (what a loss), but the farm that he made famous will live on in his family's hands. This was produced with an early pick from an 0.8-hectare parcel on red granite and iron soils, showing remarkable freshness, energy and precision, chiselled focus and the faintest whisper of old oak. A fitting tribute to a peerless grower. 2024-3

97pt

Sadie Family Rotsbank 2022 Swartland (13%) Eben Sadie is mostly associated with the Swartland, but he has never made a Chenin Blanc from the region. Until now. Bony soils of decomposed granite supply the material for this awesome first release from one of the world's greatest winemakers. Flinty and chiselled, with notes of wet stones and oyster shell, it bears the effortless concentration of its 38-year-old vines, masses of extract and tension and plenty of ageing potential. 2024-30

97pt

Sadie Family 'T Voetpad 2022 Swartland (13%) Yields from this vineyard are still tiny - though bigger than they were - at just 2,000 bottles from 1.4 hectares, so join the long queue if you want to buy some. Made from an isolated, very old-vine field blend of mostly Semillon with 46% Palomino, 4% Chenin Blanc and 2% Muscat d'Alexandrie, it's an engagingly elegant white with notes of lanolin, cream, orange zest and fresh lemons, stony intensity and a bright, mineral-edged finish. 2024-29

97pt

Savage White 2022 Western Cape (13.97%) A best-ever release of Savage White in a challenging vintage, this is a beautifully judged cuvée of Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, fermented in 20% new wood. Using fruit from Stellenbosch, the Overberg and Villiersdorp, it has a top note of stony reduction, pithy lemongrass and pink grapefruit flavours, scented, spicy oak and a palate of remarkable tension and energy. 2024-30

96pt

Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh 2022 Cape Town (13.8%) The latest in a superb run of Isliedh releases, this is a brilliant, world-class wine that continues to turn heads. Featuring 7% Sauvignon Gris for the first time, partnered with Sauvignon Blanc and 27% Semillon, it's a serious, structured, barrel-fermented delight with subtle, stony reduction, kelp, sea breeze and vanilla spice aromas and a pithy core of grapefruit, elderflower and rock salt. 2024-32

96pt

Lismore Estate Viognier Reserve 2022 Greyton (14%) Lismore's Viognier plantings escaped the devastating fire of December 2019 and have produced one of the estate's best-ever Viogniers in 2022. Layered and voluptuous, with classic white peach, cream and apricot flavours, this is exotic yet refreshing at the same time, with impressive extract and refreshing, balancing acidity. 2024-29

96pt

Sadie Family Kokerboom 2022 Olifants River (13%) This is a wonderful expression of his Citrusdal Mountain farm, and something of a tribute to Henk Laing, the grower who passed away last year. Combining Semillon with around 15% interplanted Semillon Gris, this is less exotic than it can be, showing layers of honeysuckle, saffron, citrus and herbs supported by fresh, sappy minerality, a touch of tannin and a musky undertone. 2024-29

96pt

Sadie Family Mev Kirsten 2022 Stellenbosch (13.5%) Nestled at the Stellenbosch end of the Jonkershoek Valley at a comparatively low 220 metres, Mev Kirsten is the oldest Chenin Blanc vineyard in South Africa, planted in 1905. Located on decomposed sandstone and alluvial granite soils, this has understated power, flavours of honey, pear and orange zest, some skin tannins and supporting acidity. 2024-30

96pt

Sadie Family Palladius 2021 Swartland (13.5%) "We want Palladius to operate in the same space as Columella", says Eben Sadie of his complex, 17 parcel, multi-varietal white blend, produced as a macedoine of Chenin Blanc with 75% Verdelho, Roussanne, Palomino, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Viognier and Marsanne. Peach, pear, citrus and grapefruit flavours are complemented by subtle lees from ageing in concrete eggs and amphoras, tangy acidity and impressive underlying concentration. 2024-29

95pt

AA Badenhorst Kelder Steen 2022 Swartland (13.5%) Kelder is one of the lower lying blocks on the Kalmoesfontein farm on deeper, sandier soils at around 180 metres. The result in 2022 is perfumed, nuanced, beautifully balanced Chenin Blanc with flavours of peach, citrus and aniseed, chiselled minerality and the structure, concentration and freshness to age. 2024-30

95pt

Patatsfontein Steen 2022 Montagu (12.5%) Continuing a rich run of form, Patatsfontein Steen hails from a single, 36-year-old block on slate soils at 800 metres. Steely as well as slightly salty - strange given that we are nowhere near an ocean - this has star anise, hay and fresh herb aromas, understated intensity, precise citrus, wax and lemongrass flavours and a hint of wood spices. 2024-29

95pt

Rall Ava Chenin Blanc 2022 Swartland (12%) Ava is a schist-derived Chenin Blanc from two sites in Riebeek-Kasteel and always tends to be a little richer and broader than Donovan Rall's Noa bottling. Aromas of straw, hay and oatmeal are a scented introduction to a palate of pear, citrus and mountain herbs and a salty, palate-tingling finish. 2024-29

95pt

Rall Noa Chenin Blanc 2022 Swartland (12%) Confirming the promise of the initial 2021 release, Noa hails from a 1969 Paardeberg vineyard on granite and ferricrete soils. Curated in concrete eggs and foudres, it's all about texture and structure rather than wood, with lime, green apple and lemongrass flavours and plenty of underlying grip and tension. 2024-30

94pt

AA Badenhorst The Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc 2022 Swartland (14%) The Golden Slopes in question face east at 300 metres on clay and decomposed granite soils and retain water better than many vineyards in the Swartland. Concrete fermented and aged, this has fennel and chamomile aromas, lots of richness and concentration and flavours of stone fruit, yellow apple and citrus peel. Intense stuff. 2024-29

94pt

Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2022 Cape Town (13.4%) The 2022 vintage - challenging in many parts of the Cape - was easier at Cape Point than the 2021, according to Riandri Visser. Weightier than its predecessor, this is a creamy, complex Sauvignon Blanc that spent 15 months on fine lees in barrel. Wax, oyster shell and pink grapefruit flavours combine harmoniously on the palate. 2024-30

94pt

Lismore Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2022 Greyton (13%) Dry farmed, low-yielding parcels in Greyton supply the raw material for this ambitious, intense, concentrated Chardonnay from Samantha O'Keefe. Honey, beeswax, lemongrass and gunflint notes are complemented by slightly toasty 30% new oak and racy minerality. Needs more time in bottle. 2024-29

94pt

Rall White 2022 Coastal (12.5%) The Rall white is an 80/20 cuvée of Swartland and Stellenbosch grapes, combining Chenin Blanc with 24% Verdelho and 4% Viognier. Showing some subtle struck match reduction, it displays flavours of citrus, beeswax and apricot, very understated oak spices and surprising weight and concentration for a wine with 12.5% alcohol. 2024-30

94pt

Savage Never Been Asked to Dance 2022 Paarl (13.8%) A 1956 block of Chenin Blanc, located on a slope of south east-facing granite soils, is the source of this whole bunch-pressed white. Pure, clean, chiselled and pristine, it's a very faithful expression of its terroir, with lots of understated concentration, pithy acidity and a nice combination of wet stone and honeysuckle aromas and a steely palate. 2024-29

93pt

AA Badenhorst Kalmoesfontein White 2021 Swartland (13%) Dominated by Chenin Blanc and Grenache Blanc, with lesser contributions from Roussanne, Viognier, Muscat and Colombard, this is an assemblage that underlines Adi Badenhorst's skills as a blender. Aniseed and wild flower aromas are a scented introduction to a palate of yellow apple, white peach and citrus and a crunchy finish. 2024-28

93pt

AA Badenhorst Sout van die Aarde Palomino 2022 Swartland (12.5%) Sourced from the same vineyard as Eben Sadie's Skerpioen white, this is a varietal Palomino rather than a blend with Chenin Blanc. Whole bunch pressed before ageing in older 500-litre barrels, this is a savoury, earthy, salty number with sourdough bread and umami flavours, a nip of skin tannins and a sea breezy finish. 2024-29

93pt

Brookdale Chenin Blanc 2021 Paarl (13%) Brookdale is a name to watch in Paarl. This old-vine Chenin Blanc uses raw material from a 1985 block on decomposed granite. The oak is very nuanced here, leaving lots of space for the pasty, honey, pear and citrus flavours to express themselves on the palate. 2023-28

93pt

Brookdale Sixteen Field Blend 2022 Paarl (12.9%) Even winemaker Kiara Scott has trouble remembering all of the 16 varieties she uses to make this field blended white. But the names are less important than the quality of the resulting wine. Textured, perfumed and savoury, this is a bright, acid-driven wine with subtle nutmeg spice and a macedoine of lime, grapefruit, quince and apricot. 2023-28

93pt

Lismore Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Cape South Coast (13%) Oxidatively handled at the juice stage, this is a Sauvignon Blanc which eschews the mainstream. Elgin, Greyton and Walker Bay are the sources here, with fermentation in concrete eggs and neutral barrels. Textured and well balanced, with a nip of skin tannins, subtle wood spices and citrus and grapefruit flavours. 2023-26

93pt

Lismore Chenin Blanc 2022 Cape South Coast (13.5%) Now an established part of the Lismore line-up, this Chenin Blanc is an equal blend of grapes from Bot River and Stanford. Barrel fermented in 10% new oak, it combines aromas of sea salt and kelp with a palate of pear, quince and citrus and appealing focus and minerality. 2023-27

93pt

Lismore The Age of Grace Viognier 2022 Cape South Coast (13.5%) "A tamed Viognier" is how Samantha O'Keefe describes this impressive white. Made with purchased grapes from Bot River, Elgin and Overberg, it moves from honeysuckle and stem ginger aromas into a palate of pear and apricot framed by very subtle oak sweetness. 2023-27

93pt

Rall Grenache Blanc 2022 Piekenierskloof (12%) Donovan Rall gets all of his Grenache Blanc from two vineyards in Piekenierskloof these days, fermenting the result in concrete eggs. Taut, pithy, focused and mouth-wateringly fresh, it has a lovely interplay between lees, minerality and lemon juice and orange zest flavours. 2024-30

REDS

98pt

Sadie Family Columella 2021 Swartland (14%) The latest in a remarkable run of Columellas from Paul Jordaan and Eben Sadie, this is an eight-variety blend with Syrah taking the lead role assisted by a supporting cast of 74% Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, Tinta Barocca, Pinotage and Alicante Bouschet. It's a Rhône Valley meets Pinot Noir style, with a combination of grace and intensity. Spicy, floral and alluring, it has aromas of incense and fynbos, detailed tannins, some meat and tapenade and the grip and focus to evolve for a decade or more in bottle. 2024-35

97pt

Savage Girl Next Door 2022 Cape Town (13.3%) The only thing wrong with this wine, sourced from a 0.38-hectare vineyard in Cape Town, is that there's so little of it, owing to the size of the parcel and the strong prevailing winds. Pure, taut, focused and refined, it's peppery, herbal, graceful and red-fruited, with a delicacy and elegance that wouldn't look out of place in Côte Rôtie. 2024-30

97pt

Storm Wines Vrede Pinot Noir 2022 Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (13.5%) Now including 20% of the 777 clone, alongside its habitual 115 base, Vrede comes from red clay soils with a high iron component. Seductively perfumed, this stunning red has fine tannins, fleshy, opulent flavours of strawberry and redcurrant, finely judged 35% new wood and undertones of rose petal and forest floor. One of the greatest ever Cape Pinot Noirs. 2024-30

96pt

Rall Ava Syrah 2022 Swartland (12.5%) "It's not supposed to be a great vintage," says Donovan Rall, "but I love some of the 2022s." Sure enough, this 100% whole bunch Syrah from schist soils is every bit as good as the 2021 release. Focused, floral and balletic, it's a refreshing, almost light-bodied style with wild thyme and rose petal aromas, black olive, tapenade, plum and clove flavours and finely judged tannins. 2024-30

96pt

Sadie Family Pofadder 2022 Swartland (13.5%) Can Cinsault make world class wines? In the right hands, yes. This complex, juicy, joyously drinkable Darling red has amazing concentration and grip for what is only a medium[1]bodied wine. Rose petal and hibiscus aromas segue into a palate of goji berry and red cherry, with some clove and white pepper top notes from 50% whole clusters and a fresh, ocean[1]influenced finish. 2024-30

96pt

Savage Are We There Yet? 2022 Malgas (13.2%) Are We There Yet? is named after the time it takes to drive from Duncan Savage's winery in urban Cape Town to Sijnn's vineyards in Malghas. Made with an unusual combination of Syrah and 33% Touriga Nacional, it's enticingly floral and Mediterranean, with lavender and oregano aromas, savoury tannins, plum and blueberry fruit and sinewy tannins. 2024-30

96pt

Savage Follow The Line 2022 Darling (13%) A parcel planted in 1982 that faces south into the prevailing wind is the source of this graceful, ethereal Darling Cinsault with one of my favourite labels. Delicate, floral and enticing, it has rose petal and potpourri aromas, subtle spices from 50% whole bunches and succulent goji berry and wild strawberry flavours. 2024-29

96pt

Savage Red 2021 Stellenbosch (13.8%) Duncan Savage uses grapes from three Kuils River parcels, all located on granite soils, to produce what he calls the "stalwart red" of his range. Using 70% whole bunches and 30% submerged cap fermentation, it's an intensely perfumed, grippy Syrah with white pepper and incense top notes and layers of fig, damson and blackberry fruit. 2025-35

96pt

Savage Thief in the Night 2022 Piekenierskloof (13.8%) Billie and Erasmus van Zyl's plantings at 642 metres in painterly Piekenierskloof supplies the raw material for this enticing, high-altitude Grenache from sandstone soils. Intensely fresh, mineral and chiselled, it combines raspberry and redcurrant flavours with sinewy tannins and a long, satisfying finish. 2024-30

96pt

Storm Wines Ignis Pinot Noir 2022 Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (13.7%) As its name suggests, Ignis uses grapes from a 2.4-hectare, north-facing site on warmer decomposed granite soils. Pale, ethereal and very delicate for a 2022 red, it combines the Burgundian 113 and 115 clones to brilliant effect. Focused, energetic and tangy, with savoury tannins, pomegranate and wild strawberry flavours, nuanced and a real sense of energy, vibrancy and purpose. Incredibly long. 2024-32

96pt

Storm Wines Ridge Pinot Noir 2022 Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge (13.6%) Ridge is often the most backward of Hannes Storm's trio of remarkable single vineyard Pinot Noirs, sourced from an east-facing, high-density planting at 330 metres at La Vierge on the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. Plum, black cherry and a hint of graphite are underpinned by plenty of grip, backbone and intensity. One to tuck away for a while. 2024-32

95pt

AA Badenhorst Ringmuur Cinsault 2022 Swartland (12.5%) Ringmuur is a consistently delicious Swartland Cinsault, made with grapes from a small, 0.6-hectare parcel planted in the 1960s. Using 70% carbonic maceration, it has aromas of rooibos tea and rosehip, elegant, palate-caressing tannins, some granitic grip and a core of aromatic spices and summer pudding fruit. 2024-30

95pt

De Toren Fusion V 2020 Stellenbosch (14.5%) Consistently among the best Bordeaux style blends in the Cape, V features Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Floral, herbal and complex, it has a nice frame of 50% new wood, top notes of graphite and cigar box, textured tannins and layers of cassis, plum and oregano. 2025-35

95pt

Patatsfontein Sons of Sugarland 2022 Stellenbosch (13.5%) Now sold under the Patatsfontein umbrella, Sons of Sugarland showcases the quality of the grapes from Jozua Joubert's Karibib farm in the Polkadraai Hills. Entirely whole bunch fermented in concrete, it's a wine that "screams granite" according to Reenen Borman, with lavender, thyme and white pepper perfume, sappy bramble and blackberry fruit and a serious, layered finish. 2025-32

95pt

Sadie Family Soldaat 2022 Piekenierskloof (13%) Eben Sadie buys the grapes for this wine from Erasmus and Bielie van Zyl's farm in Piekenierskloof. Comparatively pale in colour but certainly not lacking in perfume or intensity, it's subtle, ethereal Grenache of great precision. Fermented with 50% whole bunches, it has flavours of rooibos tea, pomegranate and wild strawberry and a racy, stony finish. 2024-29

95pt

Sadie Family Treinspoor 2022 Swartland (13%) "I'm besotted with this grape," says Eben Sadie, and I'm finally beginning to understand his infatuation. Less tannic and rustic than it has been in the past, Treinspoor is structured, focused and intense with notes of tar, damson, plum skin and redcurrant and lots of ageing potential. 2024-30

94pt

De Toren Book XVII 2020 Stellenbosch (14.9%) There's no denying the ambition of Book XVII or its eye-watering price. Cabernet Sauvignon led, with a supporting phalanx of 25% Malbec and 19% Cabernet Franc, it has plenty of weight and intensity, assertive 90% new oak, sweet fig and blackcurrant fruit and the structure and concentration to age. Fresher than it used to be. 2024-30

94pt

De Toren Edition Z 2020 Stellenbosch (14.5%) Right Bank Bordeaux is the model here, according to winemaker Charles Williams, who changed the blend in 2019 to its current cuvée of Merlot and 36% Cabernet Franc. Sensitively oaked in 40% new barrels, it's floral, refreshing and appealingly leafy, with notes of granite, coffee bean, raspberry and mulberry. 2024-30

94pt

Rall Cinsault 2022 Darling (12.5%) Always something of a bargain within Donovan Rall's stellar range, this 75% whole bunch[1]fermented Cinsault comes from a celebrated vineyard in Darling. Aged in concrete and older wood, it's a fragrant, floral red that will appeal to Pinot Noir drinkers on a tighter budget, showing notes of potpourri, pomegranate and wild strawberry and suave, layered tannins. 2024-29

94pt

Rall Red 2021 Swartland (13%) Released a year later than the rest of the Rall reds to allow the tannins to integrate, this is a serious, structured assemblage of Syrah with 13% Grenache, 7% Carignan and 2% Cinsault. Sappy and grippy, it marries blackberry and damson fruit flavours with understated oak spices and a sturdy, age-worthy finish. 2025-32

93pt

AA Badenhorst Kalmoesfontein Red 2021 Swartland (14%) Adi Badenhorst makes this co-fermented red from various blocks on the Kalmoesfontein farm with a classic Swartland combination of Syrah, Tinta Barocca, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Grenache. Grippy, firm, intense and built to age in bottle, it has garrigue aromas, damson and blackberry fruit, chewy tannins and very little wood influence. Needs time. 2024-29

93pt

AA Badenhorst Ramnasgras Cinsault 2022 Swartland (12%) Ramnasgras sits on a cooler, south-east facing slope and is the bigger of Adi Badenhorst's two parcels of old-vine Cinsault. Showing the influence of 20% whole clusters on the nose and palate, it moves from a nose of rose petal and subtle, stony reduction into a palate of red cherry, plum and bramble complemented by savoury tannins. 2024-29

93pt

AA Badenhorst Sk'windjiesvlei 2022 Swartland (12.5%) Along with his friend Eben Sadie, Adi Badenhorst has always been a great advocate of Tinta Barocca. This one comes from a parcel on decomposed granite and ferricrete soils and is typically wild and gutsy, with flavours of damson, fig and Mediterranean herbs, racy acidity and impressive underlying backbone and structure. 2024-30

93pt

Lismore Syrah 2021 Cape South Coast (13%) Four vineyards in Elgin and one in Stanford are the sources of Lismore's deliciously drinkable Syrah, using grapes from shale and iron soils. Fermented with 40% whole bunches and aged in 15% new wood, it's a perfumed, elegant, graceful Syrah with clove, iodine and white pepper aromas, succulent red berry fruit and granular tannins. 2024-30